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Author Topic: Automobilista  (Read 330 times)

Offline dignified_bullet

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« on: December 28, 2016, 09:25:55 AM »
If you have Automobilista and want to try new things to drive just let me know. 

I do have a server up currently but will take it down from time to time to do updates. Just look for www.premiersimracing.com and feel free to tear it up.

Currently on the server at this very moment is the Formula Dirt series that came with the latest game update. All tracks on the server are stock as well.

Offline Deadpedal

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Re: Automobilista
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2017, 01:12:41 PM »
My initial experience with Automobilista seemed to go OK IIRC, but the installation on this latest PC left me puzzled by how bad it was trying to modulate the brake and throttle. It made no sense why I was having such a bitch of a time until I tested the pedal travel against the calibration screen in game and discovered an issue I haven't seen since the early days of rFactor1 (and before that F1 Challenge 99-02, GTR and GT Legends): my gas & brake pedals were registering only for the last 50% of travel/force such that applying light brake or light throttle did absolutely nothing. This stems from the day when a controller might use half of one axis for brake and half of the same axis for throttle (called split-axis). Having not had to deal with this for 11 or 12 years, I looked up and old document I wrote up to explain the solution clearly should I ever encounter the problem again. So if anyone reading this has been frustrated by wonky gas and brake issues in AMS, this is not so difficult to remedy. Follow carefully...

Automobilista uses a file structure almost identical to rFactor but its Steam installation installs some user files in your Documents folder like ISI did with rFactor2 prior to Steam. So go to your Documents\Automobilista folder and drill down to "userdata\[playername]" folder, find the Controller.ini file and open it in Notepad or other text editor (I highly recommend Notepad++for editting .txt, .ini & .json files).

The axes settings for up to 6 controllers (Controllers 00 to 05 with 3 settings (Dead Zone, Sensitivity & Center) for each of 8 axes per controller (00 to 07)) is listed under the [ Joystick ] section (starting at line 55). Each axis is accompanied by a comment that describes the more common designation for the axis (e.g. Axis [01, 03] Dead Zone=”0.00000” //Controller 1 RX is the throttle axis RX- for controller#2.

If your pedals are a separate controller from your wheel, the pedals are most likely in the controller 01 section (which is the 2nd controller; controller #1, your wheel, is controller 00). As this list of axes for the pedals includes 8 axes but only the 3 (the pedals) are assigned, it is a simple matter of changing all “center” settings that are 0.50000 to 1.00000. There is no need to be cognizant of which axis is which because all 3 pedal axes (RY, RX, RZ) need the center at 1.00000 and the others axes are irrelevant to this controller anyway.

If your pedals are an integral part of your wheel (i.e. plugged into the wheel so that there is only one USB connection for your controller), then the gas and brake axes are part of the list of axes in controller 00. The axes which represent the throttle and brake are usually RY- (brake), RX- (throttle) and RZ- (clutch). Make sure that the value for Center for each of these axes, is “1.00000” and NOT “0.50000”. Edit and re-save the file as required.

You may have read where DX Tweak or DI View can be used to alter controller axes calibrations but I highly recommend that you edit the Controller.ini instead as it affects only the game for which it provides instructions. In my experience it has only ever reared its ugly head in games that have their foundation built on ISIMotor and have Controller.ini files.  Altering global settings in Windows with DX Tweak and DI View has the potential for screwing with games that don't exhibit this issue or that rely on split-axis.

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